When curating a list of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled high among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying area of north London.
This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.
“I am totally surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small place securing such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.
The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its original feel. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.
In the end, it is all about the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a succulent quality.
The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.
The wrap is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly taste.
Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that figure.
It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.
In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.
This restaurant’s success is likely to echo beyond its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.
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Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean