Whenever curating a roll of London’s top restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end venues. However, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of northern London.
This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the capital by a influential culinary publication. This recognition has left the proprietors completely astonished.
“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.
In the end, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy consistency.
The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.
The wrap is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong burst of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.
Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.
“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.
“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.
This restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary achievement.
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Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean
Matthew Dean