For two years during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations for Christmas were cancelled in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is where the faithful hold Jesus was born.
But, following the recent ceasefire, this sacred city determined that now celebrations would return, as represented by the illumination of its traditional, large holiday tree in front of the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"It's been two difficult years without celebration; no holiday, no jobs, no work," states the city's mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here from tourism and the tourist trade was down to nothing."
The mayor accepts that the decision to restart festivities was not without controversy, as suffering continues in Gaza – which affects members of the small Christian population, many of whom have relatives to Bethlehem.
"Some may say it is unsuitable while others contend it's appropriate," Mr Canawati explains. "However, in my heart, I felt this constituted the right thing to do because Christmas should never be stopped or cancelled. This is a beacon of hope for us."
Residents – both Christians and Muslims – take photographs before the tree decorated with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are joined by a handful of foreign tourists.
Vibrant lights now adorn city streets with signs promoting holiday markets and children's parties.
"We are delighted to have the tree, first of all, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to have the chance to observe the holiday in its authentic spirit," comments Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where everything began, therefore here is where we can convey a message to the world of what really Christmas should be about. And now, if the season is calm, then I hope it will deliver a positive message for the whole world."
The neighbouring towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour are also planning to illuminate Christmas trees soon. Hotels – which have stood largely empty for two years – are seeing a rise in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel along with some foreign visitors.
A visitor from Russia, Angelica, is on her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think everyone needs to come at least once in their life," she says.
"I wish a lot of people will soon come back as it is sorrowful without many tourists. The sole aspect that is positive is that you don't have long lines – you can come and experience more. When I came before it was necessary to wait in line for hours minimum."
For now, the souvenir stores scattered throughout the city have little business, and outside the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which date back to the 4th century, tour guides largely stand idle. Before the Gaza war, it was often crammed with people.
"This is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no life," laments a guide named Hamza. "We hope to see individuals returning as in the past: from Europe, the Middle East, America, Latin American and all over. We begin with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."
Over the last two years, unemployment has skyrocketed in Bethlehem. Since the deadly Hamas-led attacks on southern Israel in October 2023 which triggered the war, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank region have been prevented from entering Israel and Israeli settlements to work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received just a portion of their wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) – that administers areas within the West Bank. The PA relies on tax income gathered by Israel, which it is withholding – to the tune of $1.76 billion, as reported by a UN agency.
Israeli officials state they are retaining the funds because the Authority provides payments to Palestinian prisoners that encourage violence against Israelis. The PA – which has been under global pressure to enact reforms – claims it has lately modified its welfare system.
The grim economic outlook implies that for numerous Palestinian Christians, despite the fact that there are now public festivities in addition to religious services, it will constitute a subdued holiday season.
On the periphery of Manger Square, some patrons wait to purchase hot balls of falafel from a row of shops.
"We are getting ready for the holiday following one of our most challenging times as a Palestinian people and as Christians," states Alaa Salameh, an owner of a restaurant called Afteem, a long-established family restaurant which has seen its income plummet. He says lately many families could not even afford falafel – an inexpensive, traditional snack.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but based on their circumstances," Mr Salameh expects. "An individual wishing to bring their children to a festival or the theatre or similar, he doesn't have the money to expend for this celebration."
Within the grotto at the base of the Nativity Church, a resident accompanies a small Indian tour group, stooping down near a silver star which marks the spot where tradition states Jesus was born and lighting a light close by.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, people in Bethlehem state they are praying for peace – and hoping for visitors to return to the location where it is believed where Christmas started.
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